Another possible cause is air in the system which will compress. Ken, The leak is probably caused by the leaking cylinder. Looks like I probably need to replace the leaking right side deck cylinder (and maybe the left one too for good measure), but can this alone cause the deck lid to droop? I realize that it may have been this way for some time since the deck lid doesn't fall enough to interfere with the top retracting into the trunk.but it's close.įurther inspection revealed some fluid seepage at the piston arm on the right side deck cylinder, enough so that it pools and dribbles down the side of the cylinder after two or three up-down operations. I tested this several times, and confirmed that although the deck lid will remain fully open when stopped, as soon as the top cylinders engage the deck cylinder pistons start to slowly retract. You can do great damage to your deck lid if this is not done properly, so I again urge you to use a good old-time body guy for this job.While retracting the top today I noticed that the deck lid, after fully opening, will start to slowly 'droop' back into its closed position after the top cylinders activate. This is just a recognition of the skills needed to do this job - I have been doing this a long time and I still find it difficult to accomplish. I've literally spent hours getting this right.Īs a novice, I'm pretty sure that you're going to find this difficult if not impossible to do. At this point I can see where the screw might still need some adjustment, and then I repeat the procedure again as many time as it takes get everything perfectly aligned. I might do this a dozen times or more until I'm comfortable enough to start to lower the screw into the receiver. I typically make this adjustment by lowering the deck lid until it's almost closed, but not yet locking, and then peering under the deck with the aid of a flashlight to see where the screw/receiver adjustments need to be made. ![]() Fore and aft adjustment is provided at the screw mechanism and lateral adjustment is accomplished at the receiver. This accomplished by a combination of adjusting both the screw and the receiver. After that is accomplished the deck lock screws will need to be adjusted. This is accomplished by loosening the hinge bolts in their oversized holes and moving the lid forward the appropriate amount on each side. They will be familiar with all the nuances of adjusting large metal body panels and that is all that is being done in this instance.įrom your photos, it appears that the deck lid is positioned too far to the rear and needs to be moved forward until the deck lid edge is even with rear fender edge. ![]() A good body shop (not a collision shop) that is in the business of restoring classic cars like ours would be your best bet. In this case it would be a body shop, not a Ford dealer. Let me first say that the deck lid adjustment is best left to a professional. This is in reply to your PM to me earlier today. Remenber my rubber seal extends out about a quarter of a inch from under the tonneu cover. Would you no if there is other adjustments to forward the trunk lid on the drivers side to fill in that gap. ![]() My thoughts on that wouldnt solve the quarter inch groove on the drivers side would it. Would I have o undo the tonneau and see if any of the slack from the rubber seal can be pulled under the tonneau so even if I could adjust the flipper and bring it up more it would then be flushed. ![]() I no the flipper has some adjusments to it like two bolts on each frame support. I didnt notice on yours does your top flush up to the edge of the tonneau cover. But when the trunk and the flipper lid closes it meets a flushes right up to the rubber seal. My seal extends out about a quarter of a inch. I looked at a you tube video today showing the lid collasping down and it appeared that the flip lid falls into a groove and theres no visable sign of a rubber seal extending out as like mine does.
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